OBLIVION (9a)
by Alexander Rohr
Oblivion is the connection between the initial part of "Alpenbitter" (8c+/9a) and the final part of "Renardo Rules" (8c/8c+). The main difficulty lies in the connection, which is a low-percentage and often painful bouldery sequence, around 8A difficulty.
With few opportunities to rest in this route, it demands steady nerves and a clear mind to complete the final dynamic moves just below the anchor.
The link-up takes place at the Gimmelwald crag, which with more than 750 m. in length and eye-popping limestone represents one of the iconic climbing spots in Canton Bern, Switzerland.
In the video, available on the Karpos Youtube channel, the entire achievement is documented, performed by Alexander at the end of four days of attempts.
The year 2022 was an extraordinary year for Alexander Rohr. The 28-year-old from Bern completed his personal journey beyond the 9a barrier, climbing "Change" (9a+/b) in Flatanger, and "La Castagne" (9a+) in Saint Léger du Ventoux.
Alex was also very close to pushing his grade even further, being nail-bitingly close to completing "Eagle 4”(9b). Due to the wetness of the route, Alex has unfortunately not had chance for a rematch, but is eager to finish it when conditions allow.
The story of the stages that led him to push his limits is represented in the docu-film "Project Breakthrough”, which is to be released in the coming weeks on Alex’s and Karpos channels.
From the initial frustration of his plateau in climbing, we follow Alex’s journey as he attempts to breakthrough this barrier. An inner journey that instills new motivation in anyone who finds progress the real reason to push themselves out there.