“Don’t let what you experienced yesterday affect what you do today.” – N. MARČIČ
BIOGRAPHY
Hiding behind thick eyebrows and an icy gaze is the passion of a Slovenian alpinist who, starting from the mountains in his country, has climbed peaks all over the world.
Nejc Marčič has represented the pinnacle of mountaineering in Slovenia for years now. Together with his compatriot and trusted climbing partner Luka Stražar, he has completed numerous expeditions on five continents. Among Nejc’s achievements, the ascent of the west face of K7 stands out — a feat that earned him the Piolet d’Or (the highest honor in mountaineering) in 2012.
Born in 1985, the Slovene discovered the mountains at a young age, thanks to his parents. As a boy he tried his hand at ski mountaineering, and at 20 he began climbing and mountaineering, following a path that would soon lead him to train to become a mountain guide.
His passion for vertical walls of rock and snow led him to broaden his horizons. From the most challenging mountains at home, Nejc moved on to the European mountains, then to international ones: in less than a decade he reached Bolivia, Peru, Patagonia, Pakistan, the United States, Nepal, Tibet, and above all the Himalayas, the environment where he still prefers to put himself to the test.
A BRIEF CHAT WITH NEJC MARČIČ
As a mountain guide, you spend a lot of time in the mountains. How do you manage to balance your days?
It’s a challenging job, but definitely the best one I could choose. Being a guide still allows me to manage my time, balancing work, family, and mountaineering ambitions. Especially in winter, when the conditions for a long desired route comes, priorities are clear!
You've been teaming up with Luka Stražar for years now. How important is the team's harmony in the most challenging moments?
Everything is easier with a long-term partner, it's like with a wife, little talking and a lot of work done. We were connected by similar interests, similar ways of philosophy about alpine climbing. When faced with challenges and difficult decisions it's important to be sincere about what you feel and think. If climbing partners are on the same wave length, being sincere is definitely easier. I think we have this with Luka.
After traveling around the world for years, are there any places in particular that for some reason have left you with meaningful memories?
The villages in Nepal near Ghunsa, which I visited in 2012, immediately come to mind. They’re surrounded by a colorful landscape, and the lifestyle of the local people impressed me. It was my first expedition to Nepal, and it was a success, which also helps create good memories. With modernization many of these things will probably change, but I always love coming back to visit these places.
What is your favorite Karpos product?
That’s a good question! But I have the answer: the Temporale Jacket. For me it’s great for all kinds of activities in the mountains. In general, I’m happy with all the garments, to the point that it’s sometimes hard to try new things (laughs).
HIGHLIGHTS
2011 first ascent of the “Dreamer of the Golden Caves” route on the west face of K7 (with Luka Stražar)
2012 first ascent of the “Blue Racer” route on the west face of Janak
2013 first ascent of the “East Pillar” route on Ice Tooth, on the southeast ridge of Shishapangma
2021 first ascent of the new “Slovenian Direct” route on the northwest face of Tsoboje (Chobutse)