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VICTOR GARCIN

“The more elevation gain, the more fun!” – V. GARCIN

BIOGRAPHY

Young, energetic, and ambitious, Victor Garcin is a rising star on the international mountaineering scene. Born in 2000 and hailing from the Queyras region in the heart of the Hautes-Alpes department (home to some of the highest ranges in France), he has the mountains in his blood. His passion for the mountains has developed since he was a child, climbing with his father on the climbs near their house, in search of an ever-higher observation point.
 
His love for high elevations is paired with an exceptional talent, a combination that earned Victor a place on the ski mountaineering world, where he took part in national competitions and garnered some satisfying results, especially in the vertical specialties and in the team event. In 2020, the young Frenchman, following his instinct, began to explore the massifs surrounding him, trying his hand at the purest form of mountaineering. Some notable repetitions earned him entry into the Groupe Excellence d’Alpinisme National (GEAN) of the Féderation Française des Clubs Alpins et de Montagne, comprising his country’s mountaineering elite. Currently, Victor is also an aspiring high mountain guide and ski instructor.
 
Victor is an all-round mountaineer who experiences the mountains in his own way. He loves getting off the beaten track and experimenting with new routes that are the product of his visionary explorer’s imagination. In addition to opening new routes, his attention is focused on the stopwatch. Like other climbers of his generation, Victor prefers tackling technical routes carrying minimal weight, with the goal of establishing a new ascent record. Despite his young age, Victor is already dreaming big.
 
The French climber’s accomplishments include the opening of some impressive routes. In May 2024, during his first expedition with GEAN, Victor succeeded in opening a new mixed climbing line of 800 meters on the south face of the Nevado Copa massif in the Peruvian Andes, which extends up to the summit at 6,188 meters.
 
And in December 2024, he bolted and climbed for the first time another ambitious route on the Barre des Écrins, in his local mountains. Renamed “La Barretasse,” it extends for 900 meters with a maximum grade of 6b+.
Victor sees numerous projects in his future, from repeating some of the iconic routes on Mont Blanc to climbing the highest mountains in the world.
In 2025 he will attempt to climb Gasherbrum II, the first eight-thousander of his career, aiming at the record for the ascent from base camp. An adventure that will involve speed, courage, and exploration!

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A BRIEF CHAT WITH VICTOR GARCIN

What’s the most technical wall you’ve climbed so far, the climb you’re most emotionally attached to, and the one you dream of achieving in the next few years? 
The most technical I’ve climbed so far is “Pulsation,” on the south face of La Meije, ED 7c+. The one I’m most emotionally attached to is “A la sombra de la duda” on Nevado Copa. That will always be an indelible memory — you never forget your first expedition! The climb of my dreams is “La direct de l’amitié” on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses.


Which climbers from previous generations inspire you? 
Ueli Steck inspired me a lot. His successes in pure climbing sparked my dreams. But above all it’s the Swiss Machine’s approach to training and preparation that impressed me.


What is your favorite Karpos product?
The waterproof Lot Rain kit — jacket and pants. It’s the ideal combination of performance and light weight, perfect for spring, summer, and fall outings when every gram counts.

HIGHLIGHTS


2024 “Divine providence” on the Grand Pilier d’Angle in one day
2024 “La Barretasse”: opening of a new route on the south face of the Barre des Écrins
2024 “Couloir des Japonais” on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses
2024 “Tour du Queyras” on skis (20 h / 8,000 m elevation gain / 100 km)

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